Tommy's Civil War Tour of Corinth and Shiloh
leaving Tupelo on Friday afternoon, I
continued north on a two-lane highway, driving past the rolling farmlands,
kudzu-draped forests, and endless cotton fields of northern Mississippi. It was typical sultry summer weather in
the South, very hot and steamy, and days like this really made me wish that my
truck had air-conditioning. My destination that afternoon was the town of Corinth,
Mississippi, because I'd learned several years ago that my great-great-grandfather,
Myers, fought here during the Civil War in 1862 with the 10th Michigan
probably the first person in my family to visit Corinth since Ransom marched
140 years ago with the Union Army.
Here are the
Civil War tunes Dixie and Bonny Blue Flag.
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As I was
heading into town that afternoon, I stopped at the Brice's Crossroads
Battlefield Museum, and there I met a local historian
Lee. When I told Tommy why I'd come to Corinth, he offered to
show me around town the next day, which I thought was an incredibly generous
offer (although not unusual in the hospitable South), and we agreed to meet the next morning.
After leaving the museum an hour later, I drove into town and quickly learned
that Corinth doesn't have much in the way of decent motels. As luck would
have it, I picked one of the dingier ones... but at least it had
morning was hot, sunny, and steamy, and I drove into Corinth to
check it out. It's a small, friendly town, a little run-down perhaps, but
with lots of tree-lined streets and interesting antebellum mansions, one of which I
toured. Then, at
about 10 a.m., I walked over to the museum and met Tommy Lee.
Tommy is a pretty cool guy and knows a lot about the Civil
War -- or as he and most Southerners call it, "The War Between the
States" -- an important distinction because, as he noted, it wasn't a war
between the people but rather between two governments. He also gently corrected my pronunciation of
Corinth. It's not Cor-INTH, as I'd been saying (as in "fine
Corinthian leather"), but rather COR-inth. O.K., so I was dumb
Northerner, but Tommy didn't seem to mind.
Above left: My bivouac in Corinth, Mississippi. Air-conditioning, electrical
outlets for my laptop, and a real bed... what a treat!
Above center: Downtown Corinth.
Above right: My great-great-grandfather
fought here in Corinth in 1862, just after the Battle of Shiloh.
ballad Ashoken Farewell.
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For the next three hours, Tommy
and I rode around in my Toyota truck and he told me all about
the Siege of Corinth. Corinth, as I learned, was one of the most important railroad crossroads in the South during the Civil
War. In the spring of 1862, hardly a year into the war, the Union
generals, realizing the importance of this city, sent thousands of
troops up the Tennessee River and landed near a place
called the Shiloh Church. The Confederate troops ferociously attacked the
Union forces on April 6, 1862 and nearly drove them into the river, but
the Union troops got reinforced the next day and pushed the Southern troops back towards
Corinth. Altogether, the two-day Shiloh battle involved about 65,000 Union
troops and 44,000 Confederate troops.
Shiloh was one of the
bloodiest and most vicious battles of the war and, although
technically a Union victory, both sides suffered huge casualties, with the
number of men killed, wounded or missing on both sides totaling nearly
24,000. Being one of the first large-scale conflicts of the Civil War, it shocked
the armies, leaders, and citizens of both sides into the realization of what
this war would really mean.
Tommy Lee, a true Southerner and local Civil War historian -- and my
guide for the day.
battle of Shiloh, the Union troops, including my great-great-grandfather,
Ransom, whose unit had joined the rest of the Army here
shortly after the battle, crept towards the railroad crossroads of Corinth very slowly with neither
side wanting to
have another re-run of Shiloh. The Confederates knew it was hopeless,
though, so one night in the gloom of darkness, they evacuated Corinth and retreated.
After the rebels left, my
great-great-grandfather Ransom spent
about a month here in Corinth with the rest of the Union Army before heading north to Kentucky. Ransom probably should've stayed in Corinth, though, because after
he got to Kentucky, he got shot in the left arm by a rebel sharpshooter.
Ransom had his arm amputated in a field hospital, was sent to a hospital in St. Louis for a
while, then went back to Michigan to recover. Eager to get back into the
action, one-armed Ransom, now a Sergeant, re-enlisted as a courier and spent the
rest of the war dashing around eastern Tennessee with the 10th
Michigan Cavalry, with a pistol in his right hand and the reins of his horse between his teeth.
Interestingly enough, Tommy Lee's ancestors had fought for the South during the
Civil War, so here we were, two guys whose ancestors had fought on opposite
sides of the war, riding around Corinth in a pickup truck. Tommy's really
a great guy and, since we're both Civil War buffs, we had a lot of
about the war. He couldn't have been more polite and thoughtful, and it didn't matter to either of us that our ancestors
may have faced each other here in opposite trenches.
1 p.m., I was feeling guilty for taking up so much of Tommy's time, so I thanked him for his tour
of Corinth and said good-bye. "Where are you
going now?," he asked me. When I told him that I was going up to see the
Shiloh Battlefield 20 miles away, Tommy said, "Well, heck, I'll go up there with you
and show you around." So Tommy hopped into his car and I followed him up
to Shiloh, where we spent the rest of the afternoon. Tommy
grew up near here and, like many Southerners, considers Shiloh to be sacred
ground, so I got a real insider's view of the battlefield.
p.m., as the gates at Shiloh were closing, I shook Tommy's hand and said
good-bye. Southern Hospitality at its best... and a day
I'll never forget.
Above left: This beach is called Pittsburg Landing. It's on the
Tennessee River and was where Union troops heading into the
Battle of Shiloh in April 1862 disembarked from steamships. Two weeks later,
after the battle, my great-great-grandfather Ransom Myers and the 10th
Michigan Infantry landed here and joined the rest of the Union forces marching south towards
Above center: The Battle of Shiloh was a bloody two-day conflict.
During the first day, the Confederates surprised the Union forces and almost
drove them into the Tennessee River. However, Union reinforcements arrived
that night and pushed the Confederate troops back towards Corinth.
Above right: During the Battle of Shiloh, hundreds of wounded and dying soldiers on
both sides crawled here to "Bloody Pond."
Above left: Cannon on the Shiloh Battlefield.
Above center: A Confederate memorial at Shiloh. To many Southerners,
battlefields like Shiloh and Vicksburg are sacred ground. There were
flowers and wreaths on nearly every statue here.
Above right: Thanks, Tommy, for a great tour!
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Civil War Tour of Corinth and Shiloh