Alice Springs was interesting and colorful, but it was also kind of seedy and I was glad to leave and get back out on the highway -- so much for my
childhood fantasies. I thought about driving all the way up to Darwin,
which is about three full days from Alice Springs, but for several reasons I
decided not to go up to the "Top End." I wanted to
see some places up there like Kakadu National Park (where they filmed the
waterfall scene in "Crocodile Dundee"), but it was still the Wet Season and I'd
heard that a lot of the roads there were still flooded. Apparently it was also pretty
hot and sticky up there and motel rooms are pretty expensive around Darwin.
Also, I was getting road-weary and I didn't want to tack on another week of
driving across this very large continent, so Darwin will have to wait until my
next visit to Oz.
After leaving Alice Springs, I drove all day
north on the empty two-lane Stuart Highway, passing a roadhouse every hour or two.
Around 3 p.m. and with the thermometer hovering around 95
degrees, I pulled into Tennant Creek (pop. 3,500), a mining town with a large
Aboriginal population. Indeed, it was the only semblance of a town that I
passed through all day. After filling the tank, I found a motel across the
street and, after chatting with the pleasant owner for a bit, got my key and
hefted my duffel bags into the room. After closing the door, I cranked
the AC up all the way, turned on the radio and listened to the local country music station, and proceeded with my typical post-drive ritual:
By dusk it had cooled off 10 degrees outside, so I emerged
from my nice-and-frosty room and wandered the quiet streets of this
pleasant little town that sits alone in the desolate Outback.
On the way back to the motel, I stopped
at a store where I bought some groceries, enough to get me to the coast.
left: Crossing the Tropic of
Capricorn near Alice Springs. I was now officially in the tropics.
center: Memorial to John McDouall Stuart alongside the Stuart Highway.
right: I guess this is why they call central Australia "The Red
left: The Devil's Marbles near Tennant Creek, a large area of
granite boulders way out in the middle of nowhere. This area reminded me of Joshua Tree National Park in California
without the crowds.
Creek is the only town between Alice Springs and Katherine – a distance of 800
miles. There isn't much to do here... except spend the night in a
About half the customers in the Tennant Creek
grocery store were Aborigines, and one scene in particular was memorable.
A white woman and an Aborigine family who were obviously dear friends but
who apparently had not seen each other in a long time embraced with
unrestrained happiness and excitement. What really struck me about it was
that, although I'd seen plenty of Aborigines in Australia during the past
few weeks, this was the first time that I'd seen whites and Aborigines
interacting so joyously. The event made me think more
deeply about the Aborigine situation in Australia and so, being in the
middle of the Outback, I thought this would be a good place to discuss it.
don't see many Aborigines on the east coast of Australia or down in Victoria,
but you do see a lot here in the Outback. The Aboriginal story is very
complex and I've been trying to figure it out during my drive through Australia.
In many ways, their plight is similar to that of the Indians (oops, I mean
Native Americans) in the U.S. but in some ways it's an even sadder story.
I'll try to summarize what I've learned here, but I'm sure it's going to
the first white settlers landed in Australia in the late 1700s, Aborigines had
been living here for over 50,000 years. Unlike in America, where the white
settlers recognized Indians as native inhabitants, the first white settlers
here viewed Australia as an empty continent. They just moved in and took
over, while enslaving and killing thousands of Aborigines in the process. Unlike in
America and in New Zealand, the native tribes in Australia didn't mount a
coordinated resistance to the white intrusions, mainly because there were dozens
of separate Aborigine groups, many of whom spoke unique languages.
the early 1900s, the whites tried to extinguish the Aboriginal race by breaking
up families, forcing children into boarding schools, and outlawing the language
and customs -- a policy that largely failed. Over the past 30 years, the
Australian government has tried to make reparations to the Aborigines, including
returning some of the land to the original tribes. Although a lot has been
done to heal the wounds of the past, there's much that remains to be done.
Australian Aborigines today, like Native Americans in America, face a lot of problems, including
discrimination, poverty, and high levels of unemployment, alcoholism, and substance
abuse. From what I've seen, and save for a few chance encounters in
grocery stores and such, there doesn't seem to be very much social
interaction between Aborigines and whites in Australia. It's probably for the same
reasons that there isn't much interaction between Indians and whites in America:
a difference in culture, a lack of understanding, and some degree of mutual suspicion. It's
certainly a sad situation, but it does seem to be
getting better... slowly.
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