My Last Days on South Island
I left the small port town of Hokitika
the next morning and continued driving on winding
Highway 6, slowly snaking my way up the west coast. At Westport, I headed
inland and drove along the Buller River Canyon for about an hour, then headed over to Nelson Lakes National Park where, this being a Friday afternoon, I
was expecting to see huge crowds and a packed campground.
surprised, however, to find only a handful of folks in the park and a campground
that was mostly
empty, so I enjoyed a pleasant night there while camping near Lake Rotoiti.
It felt good to get some use out of the folding chair, water jug and sleeping pad
that I'd bought in Auckland a month
earlier, now that I've toted that stuff all over New Zealand. Nelson Lakes
is a nice park something like Glacier National Park in Montana, with snowcapped mountains, pretty alpine-like lakes, and a great Visitor Center
with a friendly staff.
left: Driving north on the West
Coast. Ferns like these are just about everywhere in New Zealand, and some
are taller than houses.
center: Pancake Rocks viewpoint
at Paparoa National Park.
right: This is why they call them Pancake Rocks. Neither
scientists nor Aunt Jemima know how they formed.
left: Highway 6 on the coast... and
yet more ferns.
right: A tight squeeze. Compared to the U.S., the roads in
New Zealand are really narrow (though most are wider than this one) and very
winding. It can take all day just to drive 200 miles. That's one
reason New Zealand seems a lot bigger than it really is.
left: The weather was nice enough to
camp. This is at Nelson Lakes National Park.
center: Lake Rotoiti at Nelson
right: Another shot of Lake Rotoiti. This area was covered
with ice during the last glaciation, about 10,000 years ago.
packing up my tent the next morning, I drove up to the vibrant city of Nelson on
the northern coast of the South Island, which boasts that it's the sunniest city in New
Zealand. Sure enough, it was
indeed warm and sunny when I got there.
I checked into a mom-and-pop motel that afternoon, then drove a few miles to Motueka
where I hoped to do some sea kayaking near Abel Tasman National Park, which
apparently is one of the
most spectacular National Parks in New Zealand. Ah, but with beauty comes
popularity, and unfortunately all of the kayak trips for that day were filled -- that's the price you pay for serendipity, I guess. I consoled
myself by staying up until midnight while watching the New Zealand Black Caps
play (and beat) Australia in cricket.
morning was sunny, warm and glorious, and after returning some e-mail, I drove a few hours
north to Picton which, as you may recall, is the ferry terminus for the
South Island. It was good to get back here after my 33-day trip around the South
Island. I checked in, once again, to the pleasant Broadway Motel and got some takeout at
Lord Thompson's Takeout, which is undoubtedly the very best fish & chips place in New Zealand
(and having eaten in just about every fish & chips place in this country, I should
know). That evening, you guessed it, I watched some more Black Caps cricket on T.V.
Good thing I'm not in a rut, huh?
I had a few
hours to kill the next morning before the ferry to Wellington arrived, so I
drove down to an empty park near
the Picton beach to update my website. As I was typing away at a picnic
table, a park caretaker, a friendly elderly gentleman, came by with a broom and as he swept, we started talking. We
chatted for 20 minutes as he told me about New Zealand and I told him about
America, then he smiled and bid me goodbye. That's the way
it is in New Zealand -- people often come right up to you and start talking as if
they've known you all your life.
while, I packed up my laptop computer, headed over to the ferry landing, and
boarded the ferry. On this ride, I was taking the
older, slower, and cheaper Inter-Islander Ferry instead of the sleek, new Lynx
which I had taken on my southbound crossing on Christmas Day
(see News: January
1, 2002). The Inter-Islander is a
bit rusty and, at 20 years old, is definitely showing its age but it has a lot
more charm and personality than the Lynx. I decided that I preferred old,
slow and cheap -- maybe that's because I'm also old, slow, and cheap. As
I lounged on the sun deck while watching the scenery pass by at 20 knots, I said
goodbye to beautiful South Island.
33 days on the South Island, I saw just about every corner of the island and
visited every sizable town -- and a lot of small ones. Overall, my
experience there was pretty positive. Yeah, it did rain a lot and it was a
lot more crowded than I imagined it would be. In fact, it was more crowded than just about
anywhere I've been in the U.S. during the summer. But heck, it's a
beautiful place, the scenic variety boggled my mind, and the people were
exceptionally friendly. I'll definitely come back to the South Island some
day -- just not in December or January.
left: Since my last name is Leu, I
got a kick out of this "superloo" in Nelson.
center: Sunbathers at Pelorus
right: Check out the mussels on the roof.
left: Kenepuru Sound on the northern
tip of the South Island.
center: Heading north on a
beautiful, warm afternoon.
right: After traveling around
the South Island for a month, I returned to the pleasant town of Picton where
I'd catch a ferry the next morning for the North Island.
left: One of the two Interislander ferries coming into Picton.
center: The first stop in
Picton: fish and chips. This little place serves the best fish and
chips in New Zealand.
right: "Three pieces of flake and one scoop, please."
left: The next morning, waiting for
the ferry to take me back to the North Island.
center: Leaving Picton and the
South Island, heading north.
right: Heading out into Queen Charlotte Sound.
left: On the Interislander Ferry
during the 3-hour ride to Wellington.
center: Saying goodbye to the
beautiful South Island.
right: And saying hello once again to Wellington, on the North
Travels (2001-02) >
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New Zealand and Cook Island Stories > My Last
Days on South Island