Dakota: Will the Last Person to Leave Please
Turn Off the Lights?
up where I left off in my last update (see
News: September 15, 2001), I arrived in Bismarck on the
sunny, hot Saturday of Labor Day weekend. My mother, who passed away a few years ago, was
born here in the 1920s and left Bismarck after marrying my Dad in 1943. I came to
Bismarck to find out what I could about my Mom and her ancestors and have been
here for about a month, mostly updating my website and doing family research in
the Bismarck Public Library while staying at nearby Fort Lincoln State Park. As I mentioned, I also spent a week getting my
truck's transmission fixed.
with a population of only 640,000 (one-third the size of Portland) is one of the least populated states in the U.S.
and is the only state
that has consistently lost
population during the past several decades. The net outmigration is partly
due to the brutal winters here. Though the summers in North Dakota are
generally pleasant, winters here are pretty nasty with an average high
temperature of 20 degrees in Bismarck during January and an average low of 2
below zero. Yep, kids here learn pretty fast not to stick their tongue on the
flagpole in the wintertime. But according to a local paper I read recently from 1917,
winters here really aren't that bad because it's "a humid cold and not a dry
cold." Yeah, right -- as if that makes a difference! As
everyone says, "It's not the cold, it's the humidity."
The other reason
people are leaving North Dakota is that, as farming becomes more mechanized, fewer people are needed
to grow the crops here. After graduating from high school, most rural North
Dakotans either move to the cities
here, like Bismarck, or they leave the state altogether. The large cities
in this state ("large" being a relative term with the largest city, Fargo,
having just 80,000 people) are growing slowly, but the population of rural
areas and small towns here are, for the most part, dropping fast. In
fact, many rural towns in North Dakota over the past 30 years have
disappeared and blown away with the wind.
In just about every other
part of the U.S., the concept of "growth" is a given: most cities
are getting bigger, most roads are getting more congested, etc. It's a
feeling to know that a lot of people in North Dakota are looking to move OUT,
and not many people outside of the state want to move in. Judging from the
large number of older folks here and the small number of younger
folks, the declining population trend will probably continue for many more
years. On the positive side, though, housing here is really
Above left: Getting Jiffy Lubed in Bismarck, North Dakota.
Above center: Believe it or not, this is the North Dakota
Capitol. You'd think it was an office building except for that sign in
front that says "North Dakota Capitol." At 19 stories, I believe this is the tallest building in North Dakota.
Above right: This is where I want to live.
Above left: This was where my Mom lived in Bismarck when
she met my Dad during the summer of 1943 just after she graduated from high
He was going to Naval Officer's Training School in Dickinson, 90 miles west of
Above center: Here's Bismarck High School. It looks pretty much
the same now as when my Mom went here.
Above right: Being a volleyball fan, I drove out to Bismarck State College
one evening and watched my first volleyball match in four months. No, it
wasn't great volleyball... but at least it was volleyball.
My Mom's Hometown
Bismarck is a
pleasant and friendly city with streets lined with leafy
trees that are now somewhere between green and gold. For the past month
I've been staying at nearby at Fort Lincoln State Park, camping right on
the Missouri River in a campground that's virtually deserted every night.
Each afternoon as I eat my fried chicken dinner, I watch the geese fly south down the Missouri
River valley and later I fall asleep to sound of crickets. At only $7 a night -- with a hot shower
included -- I think it's the best deal in North
often associate events in our lives with the music that's popular
at the time. Here's the #1 country
song during the fall of 2001. For years to come, whenever
I hear it, I'll think about the time I spent in Bismarck.
This is Carolyn Dawn
Johnson singing Complicated.
RealPlayer. If problems, see
The weather so far has been
pretty nice here. Of
course, this is September when the weather is still fairly pleasant, but I guess it starts
deteriorating rapidly in October. And, as I've been learning, the weather here can change on a dime (see
in the Midwest), more so than probably any other place I've ever
For instance, I was wearing shorts one sunny morning about a
week ago and the
temperature was hovering around 75 degrees, and I walked into the Bismarck
Public Library and spent a few hours there updating my website. When I walked out a
few hours later, though, the temperature had plunged to 49 degrees and I shivered in the
cold, cloudy, windy weather while scurrying to my truck. If this had
happened in California, folks would talk about it for months, but here in the
Midwest, rapid weather changes are standard fare. You know the old saying,
"If you don't like the weather, just wait a few minutes." Well, here
in North Dakota, they really mean it.
are two things here in Bismarck that seem to be big problems: hail damage
and head lice. Back in the pioneer days, hail used to decimate wheat
fields; today, it decimates car roofs and hoods. I've seen about a dozen
places around town that advertise something called "paintless dent
repair," which I hope I never have to learn about. Then a few days ago
while driving around Bismarck, I heard my very first radio ad for getting rid of head lice. Head lice
isn't a problem out in Oregon -- or at least no one discusses it. The policy
that Oregonian's have about lice is, "Don't scratch, don't tell."
I don't know how much longer I'll be here in Bismarck, though, since the
leaves are changing color and fall is definitely in the air. Now
that I've updated my website, it depends on how long it takes to finish my family
research. I plan to visit the Colorado Rockies next and, from my
experience of working there as a ranger many years ago, I know that heavy snow can start falling down there anytime now. At least I won't have
to worry about hailstorms there... or, hopefully, head lice.
Above left: Bismarck's "Folkfest" parade. Held only a few
days after the September 11 attack in New York City, there were a few
tears in the crowd.
Above center: The empty campground at Fort Lincoln State
Park, my home in
September. Each night on my way back to the campground, I stop at Dan's
Supermarket in Mandan and get some fried chicken and potato salad, which I eat
here at Fort Lincoln. I've been here so long that I'm on a first-name basis with the
Above right: The Missouri River at Bismarck. Lewis and Clark paddled
through here in October, 1804 on their way west.
I leave North Dakota, I hope to solve a mystery that's been nagging at me for
over a year. In 1899, my grandmother Helga moved from Webster, South
Dakota to the small town of Fessenden, North Dakota when she was about
12 months old (see My
Mom's Ancestors: Map and Photo Essay). She later moved to
Bismarck, where my mother was born, and she died in the mid-1960s, so I didn't
think I had any relatives in North Dakota anymore.
my mother passed away a few years ago, I learned that Helga's maiden name was Swang
(pronounced "Swong") and I learned on the Internet that there were
several Swang families living in North Dakota, including in Bismarck and in the
small town of Harvey which, as I learned, is just a few miles from Fessenden, where Helga had lived. I was sure that these Swangs were my relatives, since
the Swang name is so unusual. In fact, there are less than 40 families in
the entire U.S. with the last name of Swang.
a year ago, I sent letters of introduction to some of the Swang families in
North Dakota explaining my relation to Helga. However, I was surprised to
learn that these Swangs had never heard of Helga Swang or any of her siblings,
even though their ancestors had also come from Norway and had moved to central
North Dakota at about the same
time, around 1900. I've met recently
with some of these Swangs in Bismarck and we're now trying to figure out if
we're related. Hopefully, as I do more research in North Dakota over the
next week, I'll figure out if there's any connection between these two Norwegian
Above left: This is my great-grandfather Nels
Swang (seated, right) in a photo taken around 1925.
Anna, is seated left. Anna and Nels married near Webster, South Dakota in
1896 then moved to Fessenden, North Dakota three years later where he worked on the Soo Railroad and homesteaded. Two of
their five children, Betsy (left) and Albert (center) are
standing behind them. For some reason, my grandmother Helga was not in
Above center: My grandmother Helga at the
school where she taught.
This was taken about 1922, a year
before she married Edward Reinhard and moved to Bismarck.
Above right: My
parents in Florida in 1944 shortly after getting married. My Dad was going through
Navy Seal training in Fort
Pierce at this time. Helga, on the left, died in the mid-1960s and I
only vaguely remember her. People tell me
that she was
a wonderful person and that she and my Mom were very close.
Opinion of North Dakota
Although I grew up in Michigan and went to college in Wisconsin, I've
been away from the Midwest for a long time and I'd forgotten what makes
this place special. I'll make some comments here about North Dakota,
where I've been for the past month, but these comments also apply to the entire
upper Midwest, including South Dakota, Minnesota, Wisconsin, and Iowa.
Because of its rural setting, North
Dakota has a
reputation of being flat and boring. In
my opinion, most people who say this are flat and boring, or they've only
driven through North Dakota on the Interstate.
Personally, I think the rolling hills, wheat fields, and prairies of
North Dakota are
quite beautiful. Some people also think that North Dakotans are "hicks" or behind-the-times
and I've sensed that people here are aware of that reputation and occasionally
get defensive about it. Admittedly, there aren't any
professional sports teams in North Dakota or Magic Mountains or glitzy
attractions to satisfy those weaned on Nintendo, but
learn how to entertain themselves. The recent walleye tournament on the Missouri River was
front-page news in Bismarck and the biggest event in a nearby town last Saturday
was a lawnmower race.
the lack of big attractions here, I think North Dakota is a pretty special place. Unlike in
many parts of the Northeast, people
here aren't pushy or abrasive. People
don't intentionally scratch your car door as
in Austin (see News:
June 29, 2001) and unlike the folks in Hartford, Connecticut, they
drive courteously and actually stop at red lights (see News:
July 22, 2001). In the month I've been here, no trucker has
tried to run me off the highway, as happened in Roanoke, Virginia (twice,
in fact). I know there are a lot of
terrific people in Austin, Hartford, and Roanoke and I'm not making blanket
statements about them, but I haven't had a single bad experience in the month that I've been
here in North Dakota.
Some would say that North Dakotans don't lead terribly exciting lives, but for the most part,
I think they are honest, stable,
friendly, practical, and down-to-earth folks. There's little crime here and,
from what I've seen, most folks are hardy, resourceful, and hard-working. Walking around
Bismarck, I don't
see many of the "beautiful people" that I saw in Southern
California when I lived there, and I certainly don't see many fancy cars
or personalized license plates that say "Hotshot" or other such drivel. Most people
here aren't pretentious, materialistic, or obsessed with their looks; they don't really care what you think of them, and they don't base their self-worth on how much
money they have, or want to appear to have. For the most part, they're
well-educated, open-minded, unhurried, and well-grounded.
Yep, I really like
North Dakota and North Dakotans. I
just wish the winters here weren't so cold, eh?
6, 2001 (Fort Lincoln State Park, North Dakota)
September 30, 2001 -- Part 1 (Bismarck, North Dakota)
September 15, 2001 (Bismarck, North Dakota)
30, 2001 (Webster, South Dakota)
18, 2001 (Watertown South Dakota)
17, 2001 (Walnut Grove, Minnesota)
14, 2001 (Minneapolis, Minnesota)
10, 2001 (Battle Creek, Michigan)
8, 2001 (12 Days in Syracuse: Part 2)
8, 2001 (12 Days in Syracuse: Part 1)
6, 2001 (Manlius, New York)
23, 2001 (Middleton, Massachusetts)
22, 2001 (Boston, Massachusetts)
20, 2001 (Pomfret, Connecticut)
18, 2001 (Denton, Maryland)
16, 2001 (Cumberland, Virginia)
14, 2001 (Roanoke, Virginia)
9, 2001 (Sevierville, Tennessee)
8, 2001 (Fontana Lake, North Carolina)
5, 2001 (Manchester, Tennessee)
30, 2001 (Hohenwald, Tennessee)
29, 2001 (Corinth, Mississippi)
27, 2001 (Natchez, Mississippi)
24, 2001 (Austin, Texas)
20, 2001 (Canyon de Chelly, Arizona)
18, 2001 (Clay Canyon, Utah)
15, 2001 -- Part 2 (Zion Nat'l Park, Utah)
15, 2001 -- Part 1 (Zion Nat'l Park, Utah)
14, 2001 (San Diego, California)
11, 2001 (San Jose, California)
2, 2001 (Bellingham, Washington)
19, 2001 (Hillsboro, Oregon)
30, 2001 (Hillsboro, Oregon)
19, 2001 (Bellingham, Washington)
5, 2001 (Bellingham, Washington)
* * * * * * *
Travels (2001-02) >
U.S. Trip >
September 30, 2001 (Page 2)